When it comes to fishing, having well maintained gear can mean the difference between landing and losing the fish of a lifetime. You spend thousands of dollars on fishing gear and if it is well maintained, it will last you well into the future.
Having worked in the service industry I’ve seen some well-maintained reels which then keep service costs to a minimum, on the other hand, some are poorly looked after and look like they have been dragged behind the car before arriving at the workshop, which are not worth repairing as the repair costs can sometimes be close to the cost of a new reel.
This part will be based on maintaining your game gear as well as the DO’S & DON’TS when it comes to servicing and maintaining them.
The million-dollar question everyone asks is when and how often should I service my reels. There is no straight forward answer as it depends on several factors like how you look after them, how often they are used and how hard they have worked. As a general rule, once a year I would be sending my reels in for a service. Even if the reels haven’t been used much and are working flawlessly, getting a service and re-greasing all the bearings, gears and drag washers will ensure everything is lubed up and well maintained for when you hook that fish of a lifetime. The last thing you want is a sticky drag when you hook that fish…
Game fishing isn’t a cheap sport, the boat, the rods and reels, lures, tackle as well as the cost of fuel which is at an all-time high. So, once you fork out all the costs involved, the last thing you want is gear failure.
BEFORE HEADING OUT & SELECTING THE RIGHT GEAR
A general rule of thumb when buying fishing gear is to buy the most expensive gear that you can afford at the time. Luckily Shimano whether your budget is at the top end or towards the bottom end of the price chain, Shimano is known for reliability and building quality fishing gear with all reels coming with a 10-year manufacturing warranty meaning you don’t need the most expensive set up to catch a fish. At the top of the chain, you have the Tiagra’s and Talica’s which are almost ‘bulletproof’ and what most people will fork out the cash for once they ‘catch the bug’ for game fishing. However, they are quite expensive, buying 4-5 combos to set a spread will cost you over $5,000. Thats why Shimano makes the same quality and reliable gear but at a cheaper price point. Reels such as TLD’s and Tyrnos will get you out on the water fishing. Pairing the reel with a rod such as the Shimano Tiagra Ultra, Tiagra TCurve or Tag Em series. No matter the price point and what combo you have chosen, ensuring they are well maintained and in good working order is paramount.
You have the rod and reels, now what?
Selecting good quality line and terminal tackle is what is keeping you connected to the fish. You don’t want to buy cheap line or terminal tackle such as swivels as if that fails you can kiss that fish goodbye. Again, it all comes back to the golden rule of always buying the most expensive gear you can afford at the time.
Once your reels are spooled up and rigged ready to go, as a general rule you set your drag to 1/3 of the braking strain of the line. So 15kg line your strike drag would be set to 5kg and for 24kg your strike drag will be set to 8kg. Try get into a habit of checking this every trip or at a minimum after every fish as the drag can be knocked and can either be too tight and snap the line/pull the hooks, or too light and you won’t be putting enough pressure on the fish to set the hooks or if you do hook it you won’t have enough drag pressure to turn its head towards you. Some people even put electrical tape on their reels with marks and writing, for all different drag settings so they know exactly how much drag is at every point on the drag curve.
ON THE WATER
Shimano makes a number of reel bags/covers which keep your reels dust free at home, as well as reduce salt spray and boat rash when transporting your reels whether in the car or on the boat. Transporting your game reels with their covers on using Shimano made covers such as the Tiagra or Talica covers means you will get a perfect fit regardless of the size reel you choose. These covers limit the salt spray your reels cop when in the gunnels/rod racks on the boat as well as stops boat rash when reels may rub together or against something in transit. The dreaded boat rash that scratches the gold paint off your Tiagra’s can be limited by using the covers, keeping your reels looking ‘schmick’.
Another big point people ask is how to limit salt on your reels when out on the ocean, which if not maintained correctly can cause corrosion down the track. Obviously being out on the ocean trolling around you are bound to get salt water on your gear. You can’t stop it from happening, but you can limit it and this along with proper maintenance once back on dry land will give your gear the best possible chance of reducing corrosion inside the reel and ensures longevity of your gear into the future.
When you're on the boat and travelling in and out to the fishing grounds, placing your rods in the gunnels means they are exposed to salt spray when they don’t need to be. If your boat has a cabin or a rod rack/holders on the deck of the boat, placing them in there opposed to the gunnels limits the spray they get which is often the time they cop the most. If you can stop even 2hrs of salt spray each trip just by moving your reels to a more suitable location just in transit, imagine how much salt you have reduced on your gear over the course of a season.
BACK AT HOME
You’ve been out trolling all day, hopefully had a successful day and landed a few good fish. You're tired and just want to get the boat and gear washed and have a cold beer to celebrate. You grab the hose and hose down your rods and reels, driving all the salt it collected during the day inside the reel.
This is the best way to wash down and maintain your reels at home.
1. Tighten drags all the way (put your drag lever all the way up to ‘sunset’)
2. Wipe down your rods and reels thoroughly with a fresh water soaked rag to remove any salt build up, making sure to get into all the little ‘nooks and crannies’.
3. If using braided line, running some warm water over the spool will prevent salt build up and corrosion of the spool.
4. Grab another rag or towel and completely dry your rod and reel.
5. Once dried, use a spray on lubricant (ensure a non-petroleum based lubricant is used). Spray on any moving parts on the EXTERIOR of the reel, on the handle, on the harness lugs where they connect to the frame, ratchet lever/button as well as on the drag lever and lever quadrant.
6. If using a rod that has rollers, spray a small amount on each roller and grab some line and run it over each roller to make sure they are moving freely.
7. Wash your reel covers with a hose and even some soapy water if needed. Hose down and hang to dry.
8. Before storage, ensure drags are loosened (back your drag off to free-spool, with the ratchet on to stop any overrun), reel and rod is free from any sunscreen, residue or any bait/scales and place reel covers back on reel to reduce any dust or dirt getting onto the reel as well as any unnecessary UV sunlight directly onto your line which overtime can weaken the line.
9. Before you go on your next trip, go over your reels and rods, check the drags, check any connections on your line, such as knots/crimps, rod rollers are rolling, check your leaders are free from any cuts/abrasions and hooks are sharp.
You put so much time, money and effort into catching a fish you don’t want something simple to fail which could have been avoidable. If you ever find something that you are questioning even something as simple as a knot, cut it off and start again. You don’t want to be out there questioning something and doubting it, when you are fighting a fish hoping that thing you were too lazy to change holds.
With these tips and tricks hopefully you have a better understanding on how to maintain your gear, which will in turn lead to more fish caught/less gear failure and your fishing gear lasting for years to come.